3 Weeks in Istanbul: The Best of Both Sides

Istanbul in August? Hot. Like, step outside and immediately regret your outfit kind of hot. But honestly, the heat didn’t even matter because this city is unreal. I spent three weeks here, staying on the Asian side, which I actually liked way more. It’s calmer, less touristy, and has some of the best food and cafés. But let’s be real—you can’t come to Istanbul and skip the European side, where all the famous landmarks are.

Getting Around: Taxis, Ferries & Public Transport

Istanbul is huge, and walking everywhere isn’t happening. I mostly got around using a mix of taxis, ferries, and the metro. Taxis can be annoying (some drivers will try to scam you), so BiTaksi is a lifesaver. The ferries? Hands down the best way to cross between the two sides. They’re cheap, quick, and the views of the city from the water are incredible.

The European Side: History, Landmarks & Food

This is where most tourists stay, and for good reason. The mosques, palaces, and historic spots are all here. It’s crowded, but you kind of just have to deal with it because you don’t come to Istanbul and not see these places.

Best Things to Do on the European Side:

Hagia Sophia & Blue Mosque – These two are right next to each other, and both are stunning. The Blue Mosque’s interior is insane, and Hagia Sophia’s mix of Christian and Islamic history is really cool to see.
Topkapi Palace – Old Ottoman palace with killer views of the Bosphorus.
Grand Bazaar & Spice Bazaar – The Grand Bazaar is fun but overwhelming. The Spice Bazaar is smaller and easier to navigate, plus the Turkish delight there is next level.
Istiklal Street & Taksim Square – Big shopping area with historic buildings, cafés, and street musicians. It’s chaotic but worth checking out.
Galata Tower – One of the best views in the city, especially at sunset.

Best Cafés & Restaurants on the European Side:

Karaköy Güllüoğlu (Karaköy) – The best baklava in Istanbul, no debate. Order a mix of pistachio and walnut, and thank me later.
Café Privato (Galata) – A great spot for a classic Turkish breakfast spread.
Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (Beyoğlu) – A no-frills spot for Adana kebab, cooked right in front of you.
Pandeli (Spice Bazaar) – A historic restaurant serving classic Ottoman dishes like hünkar beğendi (slow-cooked lamb over smoky eggplant purée).
Borsam Taşfırın (Karaköy) – The place to go for lahmacun (thin Turkish pizza with minced meat and herbs).

Must-Try Foods on the European Side:

Iskender Kebab – Döner meat over pita with yogurt and tomato sauce. Messy but worth it.
Midye Dolma – Stuffed mussels with lemon. Street vendors sell them everywhere.
Sütlaç – Turkish rice pudding. Simple but addicting.

Nightlife on the European Side

360 Istanbul (Beyoğlu) – Rooftop bar with insane views and good cocktails.
Ruby (Ortaköy) – Bougie club with Bosphorus views.
Alexandra Cocktail Bar (Arnavutköy) – Small, cool spot with really creative drinks.
Nardis Jazz Club (Galata) – If you’re into live jazz, this is your place.

The Asian Side: Where I Stayed & Preferred

Fewer tourists, better food, and just a more relaxed vibe overall. The Asian side felt like where people actually live, not just visit. It’s got a little bit of everything—trendy neighborhoods, waterfront cafés, and some of the best food in the city.

Best Things to Do on the Asian Side:

Kadıköy – The heart of the Asian side. Full of street markets, coffee shops, and some of the best local restaurants.
Moda – A cool seaside area with great sunset views. Just grab a tea and sit by the water.
Üsküdar – Home to Maiden’s Tower and a bunch of beautiful mosques right by the Bosphorus.
Beylerbeyi Palace – Not as famous as Topkapi, but still stunning.
Street Food & Markets – This side of the city has some of the best street food—fresh simit, fish sandwiches, and Turkish coffee.

Best Cafés & Restaurants on the Asian Side:

Ciya Sofrası (Kadıköy) – Famous for traditional Turkish dishes you won’t find everywhere else. Get the stuffed vine leaves and etli ekmek (a Turkish-style flatbread with meat).
Pide Sun (Kadıköy) – The best pide (boat-shaped Turkish pizza) I had in Istanbul.
Kavanoz Moda (Moda) – A great brunch café with solid coffee.
Baylan (Kadıköy) – Famous for kup griye, a caramel and nut-based dessert that’s a must-try.
Tarihi Çınaraltı (Üsküdar) – A classic Turkish tea garden right on the Bosphorus.

Must-Try Foods on the Asian Side:

Simit – Istanbul’s version of a bagel, crispy on the outside. Best eaten fresh from a street vendor.
Manti – Tiny Turkish dumplings with yogurt and garlic butter. So good.
Kumpir – A loaded baked potato with endless toppings. The best ones are in Ortaköy.

Nightlife on the Asian Side

Arkaoda (Kadıköy) – Laid-back bar with a cool, artsy vibe and live music.
Viktor Levi Wine House (Moda) – Great for a relaxed night with wine.
Ziba Bar (Kadıköy) – Solid cocktails and a chill atmosphere.
Karga Bar (Kadıköy) – A more alternative, underground spot if that’s your scene.

Final Thoughts

Three weeks in Istanbul was just enough to see both sides properly, but I could’ve easily stayed longer. The mix of old and new, Europe and Asia, chaos and calm—it all makes Istanbul one of the most interesting cities I’ve ever been to. If I came back, I’d still stay on the Asian side, but I’d never skip a day exploring the European side’s history and energy. And let’s be real—the food alone is reason enough to return.

Istanbul, Türkiye