Bozcaada, Türkiye

One Week in Bozcaada

Bozcaada (Tenedos) is the kind of place where you don’t have to do much to enjoy it. There are no big resorts, no loud beach clubs, and barely any tourists compared to other coastal spots in Türkiye. It’s mostly locals, small family-run businesses, and a relaxed atmosphere. The kind of island where you swim, eat, drink wine, and repeat.

I spent a week here staying at a family friend’s house, which gave me a more local experience. If you’re planning a trip, here’s what to know.

Getting to Bozcaada (From Istanbul & Beyond)

  • Drive from Istanbul to Geyikli → About 6 hours by car. The roads are good, and you’ll pass through some scenic countryside.

  • Ferry from Geyikli to Bozcaada → The car ferry takes 30-40 minutes and runs several times a day. You can either bring your rental car on the ferry (which I highly recommend) or leave it in Geyikli and go as a foot passenger.

If you’re not driving, you can take a bus from Istanbul to Çanakkale, then a minibus to Geyikli. But honestly? Having a car makes everything easier.

Getting Around the Island

Bozcaada is small but spread out, and public transport is basically nonexistent. A rental car is necessary if you want to visit different beaches, wineries, and scenic spots at your own pace. The island’s roads are narrow but easy to drive, and parking is free almost everywhere.

Where to Go & What to Do

1. Walk Around Bozcaada Town

The main town is compact but full of character—cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, and a mix of Greek and Turkish architecture. A few spots worth checking out:

  • Bozcaada Castle → Good for a quick visit, with panoramic views.

  • Madam’ın Kahvesi → A classic café for Turkish coffee and a quiet start to the day.

  • Bozcaada Museum → Small but interesting if you want a quick history lesson on the island’s Greek past.

The best way to explore? Just walk. The town is small enough to stumble upon everything naturally.

2. Beach-Hop (Because the Water is Unreal)

Bozcaada has some of the clearest water I’ve seen, but the beaches are mostly rocky or pebbly—bring water shoes if you care about that.

  • Akvaryum Koyu → Best for clear, calm water and snorkeling. No facilities, so bring your own stuff.

  • Ayazma PlajıMost popular beach with sunbeds, umbrellas, and a few restaurants.

  • Beylik Koyu → Secluded and quiet, but the road there is rough—worth it if you want a peaceful spot.

  • Habbele Plajı → A lesser-known but beautiful beach with a small café.

Most beaches don’t have loud music or big crowds, which makes them even better.

3. Wine Tasting at Local Vineyards

Bozcaada is one of Türkiye’s best wine regions, known for its Vasilaki, Karalahna, and Kuntra grapes. Wineries here are small, family-run, and unpretentious. A few worth visiting:

  • Amadeus → Friendly, casual, and great for tastings.

  • Corvus → More modern, with a great variety of local wines.

  • Talay → One of the oldest wineries, offering a mix of traditional and newer wines.

Or just grab a bottle from a shop and drink it somewhere scenic.

4. Sunset at Polente Lighthouse

This is the sunset spot on the island. No bars, no setups—just wind turbines, cliffs, and people sitting on rocks with snacks and wine. Bring your own drinks, go early for a good spot, and enjoy the view.

Where to Eat

Bozcaada’s food scene is simple but solid—mostly fresh seafood, meze, and Aegean flavors. Here are a few places that stood out:

  • Vahit’in Yeri → Best for grilled octopus and no-frills seafood.

  • Hasan Tefik → Great meze selection, cozy atmosphere.

  • Sandık → A newer spot with a modern take on island dishes.

  • Bade-i Aşk → If you want something more upscale, this place does great seafood pasta.

  • Çiçek Pastanesi → Famous for Bozcaada’s local “kopanisti” cheese pastry and almond cookies.

Where to Shop

Bozcaada has a few small, independent shops selling local goods—don’t expect big souvenir stores or mass-produced stuff. Some good finds:

  • Bozcaada Wine Shops → Most wineries sell their wines in town, so you can stock up without driving to the vineyards.

  • Rengigül Sanat Evi → A small boutique selling handmade ceramics and local artwork.

  • Çınaraltı Zeytinyağı → Great for buying local olive oil and homemade jams.

The Vibe

Unlike places like Bodrum or Çeşme, Bozcaada doesn’t feel crowded with tourists. It’s mostly locals, weekenders from Istanbul, and people who prefer quiet over crowds. There’s no nightlife scene—just long dinners, slow mornings, and empty roads leading to hidden beaches.

It’s not a place where you have to plan much. Just drive, explore, and enjoy it at your own pace. Would I come back? Definitely—but only when I want a week of doing absolutely nothing, in the best way possible.

Danielle Giordano